Backpacking Big Sur: Buckeye and Cruickshank Trails Loop

4-Day Journey Through Coastal Vistas, Mountain Ridges, and Creekside Campsites

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The Silver Peak Wilderness in Big Sur, California, offers some of the most stunning coastal views and serene backcountry experiences in the state. This 15.1-mile loop combines the Salmon Creek Trail, Cruickshank Trail, and Buckeye Trail into an unforgettable adventure with plenty of scenery changes. Totaling 4,547 feet of elevation gain, the route has some tough climbs, which are rewarded by majestic views of the Pacific Ocean from 2,500+ feet above, lush green canyons, and even a few waterfalls.

Trip Details:

  • Trip Duration: 4 Days, 3 Nights
  • Total Distance: 15.1 Miles
  • Elevation Gain: 4,547 Feet
  • Trail Type: Loop
  • Trailhead: Buckeye Trailhead
  • Permit Required: No
  • Best Time to Visit: October to May (may want to avoid the Summer months)
  • Additional Info: Trails can be unmaintained, with significant poison oak in some areas.

Day 1

Route: Buckeye Trailhead to North Buckeye Camp
Mileage: 3.5 miles | Highlights: Stunning views of the Pacific Ocean

Starting with a Scenic Detour: Lower Salmon Creek Falls

Before officially starting the loop, I headed on a quick detour over to Lower Salmon Creek Falls, a short five-minute walk from the trailhead. If you’ve got the time, it’s worth the effort. The waterfall drops into a shaded canyon filled with moss-covered boulders and ferns, a scene that feels more Pacific Northwest than coastal California. It was late December and the flow was solid, sending a faint mist into the cool morning air. It was one of those spots where you stop, look around, and think, Alright, here we go—this is going to be good.

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Lower Salmon Creek Falls

Back at the trailhead, I grabbed my pack and officially hit the Buckeye Trail, heading onto the loop going clockwise. The hike doesn’t exactly ease you in…it starts with an immediate 2,000-foot climb in the first three miles. The single-track trail cuts through chaparral and is a little overgrown in places, with some noticeable poison oak lurking along the edges. I stayed vigilant and took careful steps—no one wants to deal with an itchy rash when you’re days away from a shower.

Coastal Climbing with a View

About a mile in, I reached a section of trail where the brush opened up, and the first real views of the Pacific Ocean appeared. I immediately grinned, as I realized I would be hiking alongside the ocean for the rest of the day, and the views were already impressive. Below me, the Pacific stretched out endlessly, perfectly highlighted by clear blue skies. To my right, the hills rolled into the distance, rugged and green. The climb didn’t get any easier after that, but the scenery kept me motivated.

The trail leveled off for a short stretch as it hugged a ridge. Hiking at this elevation—about 2,000 feet above sea level—with the ocean below and the wilderness all around made me instantly grateful to have picked this route, and it appeared I’d be getting lucky with the weather, as the forecast called for continued clear skies.

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The Pacific Ocean, along the Buckeye Trail

The trail veered inland next, trading ocean views for a more enclosed, wooded feel. This next section added another 1,500 feet of climbing on the way to North Buckeye Camp. While steep in spots, the trail was well-marked and manageable. The weather was perfect—sunny and mid-50s, with a light ocean breeze to keep the sweat in check. I enjoy hiking in cooler weather, and for late December, I couldn’t have asked for better conditions.

Settling into North Buckeye Camp

North Buckeye Camp is tucked into a grove of trees, far from the sweeping ocean vistas but cozy in its own way. It felt like a little backcountry nook, complete with a picnic table—a rare treat on a backpacking trip—and a fire ring (although fires were prohibited in Big Sur at that time). I chose to bring both my tent and my hammock on this trip, since I wasn’t sure if all of the designated campsites would be suitable for hammock hanging. Sure enough, the North Buckeye Camp was better suited for tent-camping, so I pitched my Big Agnes Copper Spur tent and used my tarp as a rainfly (a combination I was experimenting with for the first time). The campsite had a nearby stream with running water – super convenient with easy access to a water source.

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Experimenting with a tent + tarp setup

After setting up camp, I departed and headed over to a nearby vista outlook about a mile away, that I had passed by earlier. Greeted with open views of the Pacific Ocean stretching out for miles, I set up my Chair Zero, and cooked a cup of hot chocolate. Warm beverage in hand, I kicked back and watched one of the most memorable sunsets in recent years as the sky shifted from fiery orange to deep purple, distant waves crashing below.

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Sunset from a nearby Vista Point

As night fell, I returned to camp and finished off my dinner – a few In-N-Out burgers I had grabbed on the drive up (kind of a regular tradition for me on Night 1 of backpacking trips). Since Big Sur is home to Black Bears, I set up a bear hang, making sure my food and scented items were safely out of reach. Crawling into my tent, I reflected on the day: a few tough climbs, rewarded by jaw-dropping views of the Pacific, and a peaceful campsite beside a stream. So far, this was looking to be an awesome trip.


Day 2

Route: North Buckeye Camp to Lion Den Camp
Mileage: 4.5 miles | Highlights: More ocean views, Lion Den Camp

Breaking Camp and Hitting the Trail

I woke up on Day Two to the crisp chill of a December morning. The overnight low hovered around 37°F—chilly, but not too bad for winter camping. While I slept well overall, I was reminded why I lean toward hammock setups for most trips. As a side sleeper, the hard tent floor left my arms numb after a while, waking me up periodically. That said, sprawling out on the tent floor did have its perks. After 11 hours of on-and-off rest, I was eager to hit the trail, but not before coffee and breakfast.

Hiking Above the Pacific

The Buckeye Trail wasted no time delivering on the views. This section of the trail continued to weave through steep ridges, offering panoramic glimpses of the Pacific Ocean on one side and the rugged hills of the Silver Peak Wilderness on the other. By this time the trail had reached 2,500 feet above sea level, which only added to the immenseness of the views in all directions.

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Even more expansive views on Day 2

I stopped mid-morning for a snack break—whole wheat raisin English muffins, cheese, and some dried mango—and perched myself on a rocky outcrop with views that stretched for miles. I was hard pressed to remember a previous snack break with a better view than this. While I was taking it all in, I heard a pack of coyotes howling in the distance—an interesting and captivating sound in the middle of the day as waves crashed below.

About a half-mile after turning east onto the Cruikshank Trail, I passed a small backcountry campsite, little more than a flat area with a log bench. It was tempting to linger, but I had my sights set on Lion Den Camp, another three miles ahead. The short winter days meant only had about 8 hours of sunlight today, and due to my lingering pace along the beautiful coastal scenery, I found myself racing against sunset in the final hour of the trail.

Arriving at Lion Den Camp

By late-afternoon, I arrived at Lion Den Camp, a true gem of the Silver Peak Wilderness. The site is perched on a ridge with expansive views of the mountains below and the Pacific Ocean in the distance. A large picnic table—a backpacker’s luxury—sits prominently in the clearing, offering the perfect spot to relax and take in the scenery.

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Lion Den Camp

There were a few trees directly on the ridge that were just barely close enough to hang up my hammock for the night, but the setup was a bit tight. Since this campsite is pretty exposed to potential winds coming in from the coast, I set up my tarp in “A-Frame” mode, for protection from wind gusts. Since this trip was kind of a hybrid approach as far as my sleep system (bringing both my tent and hammock), I combined by inflatable sleeping pad with the hammock for insulation, instead of my normal underquilt.

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A hot meal and a warm candle lantern – Perfect winter mix

Dinner was a warm, hearty meal—Packit Gourmet’s “Dottie’s Chicken and Dumplings“—one of my favorites. I took my time, enjoying the food as I watched the sun set behind the mountains. I had decided to bring my UCO Candle Lantern on this trip, which I consider a “luxury” item for most of my winter backpacking trips. It added a comforting glow, and a big of warmth to heat my fingers as the evening chill set in.

Reflections on the Day

This day of hiking stood out for its consistent, breathtaking views and the solitude of the wilderness. With the short mileage, I had plenty of time to savor the journey without feeling rushed. Lion Den Camp was easily one of the best campsites of the trip, and I was grateful for the clear skies, mild temperatures, and quiet beauty of the Silver Peak Wilderness.


Day 3

Route: Lion Den Camp to Spruce Creek Camp
Mileage: 5 miles | Highlights: Upper Salmon Creek Falls, Creekside Campsite

Departing Lion Den Camp

The day began with a sharp nip in the air—32°F, to be exact—and frost coating my hammock and tarp. My sleep setup, using my Thermarest NeoAir Xlite sleeping pad, was adequate but a little frustrating. The pad had a tendency to keep sliding out of place every time I shifted during the night, forcing me to wake up and readjust. While not ideal, I stayed warm enough and managed a decent night’s rest. After a quick breakfast of coffee and oatmeal, I broke down camp and loaded up my pack.

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Creek Crossing early on Day 3

Lion Den Camp was a pretty epic campsite and I wished I could stay a bit longer to soak up the morning views of the ocean. But daylight is limited in late December, and I wanted to hit the trail at a decent hour. As I departed, fueled by several cups of coffee and rested from my night in the hammock, I looked forward to another day in Big Sur.

Exploring Upper Salmon Creek Falls

The Cruickshank Trail from Lion Den Camp to Spruce Creek Camp offered a refreshing change of pace—mostly downhill, with gentle grades through dense chaparral. The views remained inspiring, with lush green ferns resembling a rain-forest environment. I made good time but kept an eye on the trail, as the narrow path was littered with loose rocks that demanded steady footing.

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Descending from Lion Den Camp

A couple of miles into the hike, I spotted an unofficial trail branching off toward Upper Salmon Creek Falls. I’m always game for exploring hidden gems, and the allure of a waterfall was too good to pass up. I stashed my pack along the main trail and followed the faint path through the forest toward the base of the falls. From there, I scoped out a potential route up the rocks to the top of the cascade. Given that the climb to the top of the falls required traversing slick wet rocks, I clipped my Garmin InReach Mini to my belt as a precaution (the SOS button could be used in the event of a fall) and started the climb.

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Scrambling to the top of Upper Salmon Creek Falls (look closely)

The climb to the top of the falls was a mix of Class 2 and 3 scrambling. The rocks were slippery and mossy in places and while it wasn’t overly technical, the wet conditions kept me cautious. I made it the top of the falls without issue and took in the sights. Surrounded by ferns and towering trees, I sat at the top of the falls, my legs dangling over the edge. I lingered for a while, listening to the roar of the falls, before carefully retracing my steps back to the main trail.

Spruce Creek Camp

Spruce Creek Camp came into view by mid-afternoon. Nestled in a wooded canyon, the site is another gem and a nice compliment to my previous night at Lion Den camp. Located directly next to the rushing Spruce Creek (where it intersects with Salmon Creek), there was plenty of space for my tent, another picnic table for cooking, and the soothing creek flowing just steps away. I couldn’t believe my luck: despite it being a weekend, nobody had claimed this site yet.

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Spruce Creek Campsite

After setting up my tent, I hung up the hammock for lounging and spent the late afternoon enjoying the calm of the creek. The constant sound of flowing water was deeply relaxing, a welcome contrast to the steady breeze of the ridges.

Dinner was an other Packet Gourmet backpacking meal, the ‘Big Easy’ Cajun Gumbo. I paired it with a cup of hot tea and watched the sky darken early—it was only 5pm when the last light disappeared. To make the long evening more enjoyable, I watched a few downloaded movies on my phone from the comfort of my hammock, before retiring for the night in my tent.

Reflections on Day 3

This was a perfect day of backpacking due to the impressive mix of scenery. The Cruickshank Trail’s descent included sweeping mountain vistas, ocean views, lush green forests, a waterfall, and a peaceful creek at the end of the day. Spruce Creek Camp, with its creekside location and solitude, felt like the perfect finale to a day filled with peaceful moments.


Day 4

Route: Spruce Creek Camp to Buckeye Trailhead
Mileage: 2.5 miles | Highlights: Oocean breezes, final coastal views

The Descent Back to Civilization

I broke down camp before sunrise and hit the trail early. The trail from Spruce Creek Camp to the Buckeye Trailhead is short—only 2.5 miles—but even a short stretch of trail in Big Sur is still impressive. The walk was easy and mostly downhill, with the path winding through thick vegetation and opening up to more ocean views that seemed to welcome me back to the trailhead.

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Final Views of the Pacific as I returned to the Trailhead

The Salmon Creek Trailhead came into view mid-morning, with my car exactly where I left it. It’s always a mix of relief and reality-check when you see your car again after a few days out. You’re glad to be done with the heavy pack and a hot shower is waiting, but the quiet solitude of the trail is officially over.

Before hitting the road, I made one last stop at a pullout along Highway 1. Standing there, watching waves crash against the cliffs, I thought about how different this part of the world feels depending on where you are. On the trail, it’s all silence and big views, but down here, it’s tourists snapping selfies and the hum of passing cars. Honestly, there’s something to appreciate about both.

Final Reflections

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This 15.1-mile loop through the Silver Peak Wilderness delivered big climbs, stunning views, and just enough challenge to feel like a proper adventure. Over the four days, I gained 4,500 feet and was rewarded with some of the best ocean and mountain scenery on California’s central coast.

The route showcased Big Sur’s diversity, from the coastal vistas of the Buckeye Trail to the quiet canyons of the Cruickshank Trail. Each campsite had its charm—Lion Den Camp’s panoramic views were a highlight, and Spruce Creek Camp’s peaceful creekside setting made for a perfect finale.

While this loop requires preparation—poison oak is prevalent, and the 4,500-foot elevation gain is no joke—the rewards are immense. For those ready to take it on, it’s a fantastic way to experience Big Sur’s rugged beauty.

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